Proper surface preparation is the most crucial step before applying Everbrite coatings to ensure excellent adhesion and long-lasting protection. Skipping any part of the preparation process can lead to poor adhesion, an unsatisfactory finish, or necessitate removing the coating and starting over. The general steps for preparing a surface are: 1. Cleaning the Surface The surface must be scrupulously clean and free from all contaminants to allow the coating to adhere properly. • Remove Tarnish, Oxidation, Dirt, and Grime: All existing tarnish, oxidation, chalk, dirt, and other residues must be completely removed. ◦ Polishing/Buffing: For tarnished or oxidized bare metals like copper, brass, bronze, or silver, polish or buff the surface to the desired luster. Midas Touch Polish is recommended as it's not acid-based. ◦ Cleaning Gels/Acids: For stubborn tarnish on copper, brass, or bronze, Copper Cleaning Gel (a mild acid) can be used. If hydrogen peroxide and vinegar are used to induce rust, those acids also need to be neutralized. ◦ Sanding: Metal can also be sanded with fine-grit automotive sandpaper (e.g., 600-2000 grit) to remove tarnish, especially on older copper roofs. For rusted metal, loose, flaking ("blooming") rust should be knocked down or sanded to create a more even surface with good adhesion. On stainless steel, synthetic steel wool pads or very fine sandpaper (600-2000 grit) can remove rust, working with the grain. ◦ Painted/Anodized/Powder-Coated Surfaces: Wash with EZ-Prep Concentrated Cleaner or mild soap (like Dawn) and water using a Prep Pad or microfiber cloth to remove dirt, chalky oxidation, and polish residue. ◦ Mill Scale: For steel (mild, raw, cold rolled), mill scale (an oily barrier) must be removed before rusting or coating, as it can cause adhesion problems. Sandblasting can remove it. ◦ Mold/Mildew: If present, a 20% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 4 parts water) can remove mold or mildew from surfaces like siding or awnings. • Remove Waxes, Grease, Silicone, and Oils: These contaminants will prevent adhesion and cause the coating to separate or "fisheye". ◦ Many household stainless steel cleaners, Pledge, and WD-40 contain silicone, which must be removed. ◦ Mineral spirits is the only solvent recommended for removing silicone and silicone-based waxes. If mineral spirits are used, a subsequent wipe with a clean solvent (xylene, denatured alcohol, or pure acetone) is necessary before coating. ◦ For new metals (like copper or stainless steel) that come with a protective film, peel it off and wash any adhesive residue with mild soap and water; use a clean solvent if needed. 2. Neutralizing Acids (If Used) This is a critical step if any acid-based cleaners, polishes, patinas, or rust accelerators were used (e.g., Copper Cleaning Gel, vinegar, Brasso's legacy formula, Stainless Steel Rust Remover, Instant Rust Accelerator). • Why Neutralize: Failure to neutralize acids will cause the metal (copper, brass, stainless steel) to darken, blacken, or rust when coated, and can interfere with coating adhesion. Acid continues to work on metals, causing tarnish or discoloration quickly if not neutralized. • Neutralizing Solutions: ◦ EZ-Prep Neutralizer: Mix with water at a ratio of 1:3 (1 part EZ-Prep to 3 parts water) for general neutralization. For stronger acids, it can be used straight or mixed 1:1 with water. ◦ Baking Soda Solution: Mix 1 cup of baking soda with 1 gallon of water (or smaller equivalent proportions). For stronger acids, increase the baking soda concentration. A baking soda solution can be a stronger neutralizer than EZ-Prep. • Application: Small items can be dipped into the solution. Larger items like roofs or gutters require completely washing the surface with the neutralizing solution. For jewelry, dip or wash with a cloth saturated in the solution. • When to Skip: This step can be skipped if using polishes that are not acid-based, such as Midas Touch Polish. If unsure, it's safer to neutralize. 3. Rinsing • After cleaning and neutralizing, rinse the surface thoroughly with clean water. • Check for Residue: Ensure the water sheets off the surface and does not bead up, and there are no bubbles, which indicate remaining cleaner or contaminants. If water beads, rewash and rinse until it sheets off. • Distilled Water: For copper or other metals where mineral content in tap water can cause discoloration, use distilled water or Brita-filtered water for rinsing. 4. Drying the Surface The surface must be completely and scrupulously dry before coating. • Remove All Moisture: Rusted metal, especially, is porous and can hold moisture, which will interfere with adhesion. • Heat Application: A heat gun or hair dryer can help ensure the metal is thoroughly dry. If steam comes out, the metal is not dry. For meteorite rings, oven drying at 160-180°F for 1 hour is recommended to remove all moisture. • Cooling: Allow the metal to cool before coating; it can be warm but not hot to the touch (below 110°F/43°C). • Dew/Water: Never apply the coating over dew or water, as it will float on the moisture and not adhere to the metal, potentially lifting later. • Paint Cure: If coating over painted surfaces, the paint must be fully cured to prevent wrinkling, lifting, or bubbling. Some oil-based paints (like Rustoleum) can take 45+ days to cure, depending on temperature and humidity. Test a small, inconspicuous area by applying the coating to ensure the paint doesn't lift or wrinkle. 5. Final Solvent Wipe This is a crucial and mandatory step to ensure optimal adhesion and should be done immediately before coating. • Solvents: Use a clean, lint-free cloth soaked in xylene, denatured alcohol, or pure acetone. These are considered "clean solvents". • Purpose: This step removes any remaining oils, residues, or contaminants that could prevent adhesion. • Technique: Do NOT dilute or rinse the solvent. • Personal Protection: Wear nitrile or chemical-resistant gloves (rubber gloves will get sticky) and eye protection when handling solvents and freshly cleaned metal to prevent skin oils from leaving fingerprints. • Disposal: Immediately dispose of used solvent cloths outside to dry completely, as they will smell strongly if left indoors. Specific Considerations for Different Materials • Stainless Steel Appliances: Ensure the appliance is real stainless steel, not "faux" stainless steel with a plastic film, as the solvent is incompatible with plastic film. • Copper (New Installation): Workers should wear gloves during installation to prevent acids and oils from their hands from leaving dark fingerprints and marks on new copper. • Rubber Seals (Garage Doors): Tape off any rubber seals on garage doors before coating, as the solvent in the coating can make soft rubber sticky and cause sticking issues. • Porous Wood/Decking: Coatings are not recommended for porous woods like redwood decking. • Damaged Surfaces: If the paint is peeling, or the metal is showing through, or if there is etching, staining, or pitting, the coating alone cannot restore these issues. It can only protect the surface once it has been cleaned. • Vinyl/Fiberglass/Hard Plastics/Resin: Always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure compatibility. The coating is compatible if it hardens and is dry to the touch after an hour without the surface becoming sticky. If the solvent releases plasticizers, the surface will remain sticky. By meticulously following these preparation steps, you can ensure your project is ready for coating and achieve a durable, aesthetically pleasing, and long-lasting finish.