How to Apply CrobialCoat Antimicrobial with Microban
Suggested Project Use: High use or high touch areas where antimicrobial protection is desired. Excellent for railings, kitchens, bathrooms, door hardware, light switches, panel buttons, handicap push buttons. For use on stainless steel, aluminum, anodized aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, chrome, and any non-painted metals. Other suitable surfaces would be ceramics, tile/grout, hardwoods, and most hard plastics.
*Read entire directions thoroughly before beginning.*
Make sure that the surface to be coated is completely clean & dry.
Solvent wipe unpainted metals.
Wipe on CrobialCoat.
FOR SURFACES THAT LOOK HOW YOU WANT THEM:
Ensure the surface is completely clean and dry. CrobialCoat will not remove tarnish or water spots.
Proper cleaning is surface-dependent. For bare metals, wipe with a recommended solvent. Hard plastics, use 90%+ Isopropyl Alcohol. Other surfaces can be washed with a mild soap and water or our EZ Prep Cleaner, rinsed and dried completely.
Skip to “4. Application of Coating”.
FOR TARNISHED METAL SURFACES:
Clean or Polish. Clean, polish or buff the surface to the luster desired with any metal polish you prefer. (We recommend MIDAS TOUCH Polishing Cream that is non-acidic, found on our website).
Neutralize! **Very important** (This Step can be skipped if acidic cleaners and polishes are not used.) MIDAS TOUCH does not contain acid, however, many polishes do, check the ingredient list for any type of acid. Use EZ Prep Neutralizer in a solution of 1 part EZ Prep to 4 parts water. As an alternative, use 1 cup baking soda mixed with 1 gallon of water (or a similar ratio). Wash the metal with a cloth saturated with the neutralizing solution being careful to cover the entire surface at least once. Rinse with clean water. Dry with a clean cloth to prevent spotting. See preparation tips for additional information.
Solvent Wipe - see below
Application of Coating - see below
Solvent wipe unpainted metal with xylene, a xylene substitute, denatured alcohol, or acetone to remove any traces of residue. If using acetone, be careful. Acetone is a strong solvent, take caution near any painted surfaces. This step needs to be done immediately before coating. Do NOT dilute or rinse the solvent. This step will ensure a completely clean and dry surface. Skipping this step will result in poor adhesion of the coating. (Solvent not included; available at hardware stores)
APPLICATION OF COATING
Do NOT thin the coating. Shake coating before each use to ensure antimicrobial properties are distributed throughout the coating.
Pour the coating into clean, dry, metal or glass pan.
Submerge applicator completely into the coating. Gently squeeze out just the excess. Applicator should be saturated but not dripping. This is important as dry areas in the applicator can cause streaks.
Apply the coating to the surface letting the applicator glide across the surface. Do not press hard. Applicator should glide smoothly. When it starts showing resistance, dip the applicator again. If you get drips, simply smooth them out before the coating starts to dry. Observe the coating while applying: if the coating separates or does not look completely smooth, STOP and re-clean the surface.
Let the coating dry completely. It will self-level as it dries. If you see an area you missed, let it dry and then coat over the missed area. CrobialCoat is self-annealing; meaning the second coat will become part of the first coat. Wait at least one hour between coats or until the previous coat is completely dry.
Apply one coat for antimicrobial protection only. Two or more coats as recommended for antimicrobial protection plus protection from tarnish, oxidation, and elements. (See Project Specific Tips.)
DRY & CURE TIME: The coating will be dry in an hour (several coats may take longer). Dry coating is still delicate until cured. Heat and air circulation help speed curing. Under normal circumstances & with good ventilation, coating is generally cured after 4-5 days. Wait until cured before prolonged contact with other surfaces or packaging. Allow a minimum of two weeks cure time before letting water sit/pool on the coated surface, immersing in water or filling sinks/fountains, etc. In most cases, dew or rain does not hurt the coating once it is dry for 3-4 hours.
You can shorten cure time by gently heating the coating AFTER it is dry to the touch. Dry, coated items placed in a low-temperature oven (140°F -180°F) for 1 hour will be cured when cooled. Larger items can be placed in direct sunlight to speed curing.
AFTERCARE: Do NOT use solvent or citrus-based cleaners or abrasives to clean coated metal. Do not use cleaners with “petroleum distillates”. Suggested cleaners: Windex, mild dish soap and water or similar mild cleaners.
MAINTENANCE & LONGEVITY: Once coated, the coating is easy to maintain. As long as the original coating is still intact, wash the surface with mild dish soap and water, dry well, and recoat. The longevity of the coating is dependent on proper application of the coating, its environment, and general use and abuse.
SHELF LIFE OF COATING: Coating has an indefinite shelf life when stored in the closed, original container. Keep any extra coating for touch-ups. We recommend cleaning the threads of the container before reattaching the lid to avoid sticking.
COATING REMOVAL: The coatings can be removed from unpainted metals with solvents like Xylene. Small items can be soaked in solvent. Wear personal protection. Wet a cloth or paper towels with the solvent completely. Move the wet cloth over the coated metal with light pressure. Rubbing hard is not advised. When coating begins to “melt”, wipe it up & off of the surface. Repeat until the coating is gone.
PROJECT SPECIFIC TIPS BEFORE YOU START:
Sinks and water features: Avoid pooling water, filling with water, or pouring boiling water in the sink for a minimum of two weeks after coating. Sinks may take longer to cure. A deep sink does not get much air circulation. A hairdryer or heated fan can be used every so often to introduce heat and circulation to the area after it is coated to speed curing.
Stainless Steel: Many stainless steel cleaners contain silicone. Silicone residue must be removed before applying the coating. Silicone is a common coating agent which can be removed with mineral spirits (available at hardware stores). A solvent wipe is still needed.
Appliances: Faux stainless steel appliances are not suitable for our coating due to the plastic nature of the material.
Stainless Steel (where rust needs to be removed): Stainless Steel Rust Remover and our synthetic steel wool Prep Pads are excellent for removing rust. (Do not use regular steel wool.) Always clean and sand with the grain.
Questions: Call Everbrite, Inc. (916) 852-0200 or visit RenewMetal.com
Number of coats needed:
For antimicrobial protection only, apply one coat.
For antimicrobial protection plus protection from tarnish, oxidation, and elements, two or more coats as recommended below:
Kitchen Sinks: 4 coats (bathroom sinks: 2 coats)
Countertops/Bar/Tabletops: 3-4 coats
Rings (jewelry): 3-4 coats
Highly polished: 1-2 coats (two if high handling or high use/abuse)
Kitchen Appliances/Hoods: 1 good coat (on vertical surfaces)
PREPARATION TIPS FOR ALL SURFACES:
USE GLOVES TO AVOID FINGERPRINTS
After cleaning, use gloves during handling to protect from fingerprints and avoid problems later.
REMOVE FILMS, OILS, WAXES & SILICONE
These can interfere with adhesion or cause separation. They need to be removed completely. Most waxes can be removed with ammonia. Silicone is a common coating agent which can be removed with mineral spirits (available at hardware stores). Once removed, complete Step 3 (Solvent Wipe) again.
Allow for adequate ventilation. Always wear nitrile or chemical-resistant gloves when applying the coating. If spraying with an HVLP or airless sprayer, a NIOSH respirator is recommended.
CAUTION - RUBBER & SOFT PLASTICS:
Our coating will melt rubber and soft plastics. Use nitrile gloves or chemical-resistant gloves as rubber gloves will become sticky. Use glass or metal when pouring coating into another container. Use a natural bristled brush for a brush application (no synthetics).
TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY MATTER:
Coating is best applied in temperatures from 55-85 degrees and without humidity. (40-100 degrees outside temperature is a workable range.) The temperature of the metal is more important than the air temperature. The metal is too hot if you cannot place the back of your hand on it for 10-15 seconds. If it is too cold, warm the metal with a heat gun, hair dryer, or work in the sun or shade appropriately. Do not apply if the temperature is within 10 degrees of the dew point. You can access dew point information for your area on weather.com.
TEST FIRST: For larger projects, it is recommended to test application of the coating in a small inconspicuous area before coating your entire project.