How to Restore and Protect Unpainted Architectural Metal

4 Basic Steps

 

1. Clean or Polish (if necessary)

2. Neutralize Acid (if used)

3. Solvent Wipe

4. Apply Coating

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PREPARATION

Thorough preparation is very important. If you try to take shortcuts on preparation, you will likely not achieve the intended results and may need to remove the coating and start again. The article to be coated must be scrupulously clean and completely dry before applying the coating.

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NEW or METAL WITH PATINA
Skip to Solvent Wipe step below. Solvent will NOT remove most forms of tarnish or patina. Test a small area first.

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TARNISHED or OXIDIZED METAL

Follow polish, neutralize & solvent wipe steps before applying coating.

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1. CLEAN or POLISH

Clean, polish or buff the surface to the luster desired with any metal polish you prefer (we recommend MIDAS TOUCH Polishing Cream, which can be found on our website). The metal can also be sanded or simply cleaned to desired appearance.

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2. NEUTRALIZE

**Very important** (This Step can be skipped if acidic cleaners and polishes are not used.) MIDAS TOUCH does not contain acid, however many polishes do, check ingredient list for any type of acid. If you are unsure, complete this step. Use EZ Prep Neutralizer in a solution of 1 part EZ Prep to 4 parts water. As an alternative, use 1 cup baking soda mixed with 1 gallon of water (or a similar ratio). Wash the metal with a cloth saturated with the neutralizing solution being careful to cover the entire surface at least once. Rinse with clean water. Dry with a clean cloth to prevent spotting. See preparation tips for additional information.

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3. SOLVENT WIPE

Thoroughly solvent wipe the metal with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, denatured alcohol, or acetone to remove any traces of cleaners or polish residue. This step needs to be done immediately before coating. Do NOT dilute or rinse the solvent. This step will ensure a completely clean and dry surface. Skipping this step will result in poor adhesion of the coating. 

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Please read and follow all directions and cautions on packaging and Safety Data Sheet.

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PREPARING THE COATING

Satin finishes and CrobialCoat require shaking before each use to distribute additional properties throughout the coating. Let sit a minute or two before use allowing bubbles to dissipate. Failure to mix well before you start and frequently throughout the application period may result in a streaky and uneven finish with Satin products and improper distribution of antimicrobial properties in CrobialCoat. (There is NO requirement to shake or mix the clear finish.)

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4. APPLICATION OF COATING

1. Pour the coating into clean, dry, metal or glass pan or suitable vessel.

2. Submerge applicator completely into the coating. Gently squeeze out just the excess. Applicator should be saturated but not dripping. This is important as dry areas in the applicator can cause streaks.

3. Apply the coating to the surface letting the applicator glide across the surface. Do not press hard. Applicator should glide smoothly. When it starts showing resistance, dip the applicator again. If you get drips, simply smooth them out before the coating starts to dry. Observe the coating while applying: if the coating separates or does not look completely smooth, STOP and re-clean the surface.

   Let the coating dry completely. It will self-level as it dries. If you see an area you missed, let it dry and then coat over the missed area. Everbrite coatings are self- annealing; meaning the second coat will become part of the first coat. Wait at least one hour between coats or until the previous coat is completely dry. Most projects require two coats, some need more. 

 

DRY & CURE TIME: The coating will be dry in an hour. Dry coating is still delicate until cured. Heat and air circulation help speed curing. Under normal circumstances & with good ventilation, coating is generally cured after 4-5 days. Wait until cured before prolonged contact with other surfaces or packaging. Allow a minimum of two weeks cure time before letting water sit/pool on the coated surface, immersing in water or filling sinks/fountains, etc. In most cases, dew or rain does not hurt the coating once it is dry for 3-4 hours.​ Larger items can be placed direct sunlight to speed curing.

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AFTER CARE: Do NOT use solvent or citrus based cleaners or abrasives to clean coated metal. Do not use cleaners with “petroleum distillates”. Suggested cleaners: Windex, mild dish soap and water or similar mild cleaners.

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MAINTENANCE & LONGEVITY: Once coated, the coating is easy to maintain. As long as the original coating is still intact, wash the surface with a mild dish soap and water, dry well, and recoat. It is best to recoat before any tarnish or oxidation is seen or at the first sight of slight color change. The longevity of the coating is dependent on proper application of the coating, its environment, and general use and abuse. See Maintenance Instructions on our website.

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SHELF LIFE OF COATING: Coating has an indefinite shelf life when stored in the closed, original container. Keep any extra coating for touch ups. We recommend cleaning the threads of the container before reattaching the lid to avoid sticking.

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COATING REMOVAL: The coatings can be removed from unpainted metals with solvents like Xylene or a Xylene substitute or they can be removed mechanically by sanding for larger areas like copper roofs. Small items can be soaked in solvent. Wear personal protection. Wet a cloth or paper towels with the solvent completely. Move the wet cloth over the coated metal with light pressure. Rubbing hard is not advised. When coating begins to “melt”, wipe it up and off of the surface. Repeat until coating is gone.

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APPLICATION TIPS

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PERSONAL PROTECTION:

Allow for adequate ventilation. Wear eye protection. Always wear nitrile or chemical-resistant gloves when applying the coating. If spraying with an HVLP or airless sprayer, a NIOSH respirator is recommended.

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CAUTION - RUBBER & SOFT PLASTICS:

Our coating will melt rubber and soft plastics. Use nitrile gloves or chemical-resistant gloves, as rubber gloves will become sticky. Use glass or metal when pouring coating into another container. Use a natural bristled brush for a brush application (no synthetics).

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TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY ARE IMPORTANT:

Coating is best applied in temperatures from 55-85 degrees and without humidity. (40-100 degrees outside temperature is a workable range.) The temperature of the metal is more important than the air temperature. The metal is too hot if you cannot place the back of your hand on it for 10-15 seconds. If it is too cold, warm the metal with a heat gun, hair dryer, or work in the sun or shade appropriately. Do not apply if the temperature is within 10 degrees of the dew point. You can access dew point information for your area on weather.com.

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APPLICATION METHODS:

Application method is a matter of personal preference and somewhat project dependent. For application, use a clear-coat applicator: applicator pad, sponge brush, natural-bristled paintbrush, dense microfiber roller, clean dry lint-free white cloth, aerosol can, HVLP or Airbrush paint sprayer with a fine-finish tip. If using a cloth, fold it into a pad. Aerosols are not recommended for large, flat surfaces. For intricate items or jewelry chains spraying is the best application. Items can also be dipped into the coating and hung to dry.

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APPLICATOR CARE & CLEANING:

Rollers, sponge brushes, and applicator pads are discarded after use, but they will last for a short while if wrapped well in aluminum foil to stop brushes/tools from becoming hard between coats or during breaks. Brushes and spray tips can be cleaned with Xylene or a Xylene substitute.

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TEST FIRST: For larger projects, it is recommended to test application of the coating in a small inconspicuous area before coating your entire project.

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Do NOT thin the coatings.

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PREPARATION TIPS

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USE GLOVES TO AVOID FINGERPRINTS

After cleaning, use gloves during handling to protect from fingerprints and avoid problems later.

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REMOVE FILMS, OILS, WAXES & SILICONE

These can interfere with adhesion or cause separation. They need to be removed completely. Most waxes can be removed with ammonia. Silicone is a common coating agent which can be removed with mineral spirits (available at hardware stores). Once removed, complete Step 3 (Solvent Wipe) again.

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IF MOLD IS PRESENT

Before any cleaning, wet the surface with water. Apply a bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 4 parts water.

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POLISH WITH MIDAS TOUCH

We recommend MIDAS TOUCH Polishing Cream, a non- acidic polish that does not require neutralization. 

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NEUTRALIZING ACIDS IS CRITICAL

It is very important to neutralize any acid from polishes, cleaners, or chemical methods very well before coating. Acids remaining can discolor the metal under the coating or interact with the coating leaving streaks of discoloration. For example, blackening or black streaks on copper are common when not well neutralized. For strong acids, you may need to strengthen the solution. To strengthen the neutralizing solution, use 1 part EZ Prep to 3 Parts water. Or 2 cups of baking soda to a gallon of water.

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REMOVE ALL MOISTURE

Porous metals like steel will need to be bone dry before coating. Heat guns, hair dryers, or extra time in the sun will help trapped moisture evaporate.

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THE SOLVENT WIPE STEP IS NECESSARY!

The solvent wipe is necessary for best adhesion to ensure a clean dry surface immediately before coating.